Tuesday, September 17, 2019
Up at 630am and on the road north. Sun and 60 degrees. SSW 20-30 all day starting on the 9 and the Jester set up Tri-fin. Great 3-5' wave and swell cutting up the Breakwall and the front beach. Down to the 7m after an hour with no depower and it's perfect for drift and pull in the waves. 30+ people out and no one on the beach. Water still warm and toasty warm still for the 4/3 wetsuit. 65 miles and 5 hours worthy of the 2 hour easy drive there and back by 8pm. Love the day and need more of this on a NE for some downy action.